Tag Archives: food and wine pairing

2011/08/17 · 3:05 am

Fruity, Fun, Frizzante Feast; Villa Di Corlo, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Amabile

Some wines suffer from stereotyping through no fault of their own, Lambrusco one of my favorite wines to pair with many Italian delicacies from prosciutto to aged robust cheesy dishes definitely falls into this category. Many Americans still link the memory of this wine with catchy commercial jingles, bad 70′s style and overly sweet fruity plonk.

Considering it’s origin of Emilia Romagna is this really fair? Emilia Romanga is the home of Proscuitto de Parma, Modena balsamic vinegar, Parmigiano cheese and other Italian gastronomic wonders often washed down with large amounts of locally produced Lambrusco ranging in style from dry to sweet.

There are a number of Lambrusco wines with DOC status including Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro and Lambrusco Salomino di Santa Croce. All are named after the town in which territory the grapes are grown.

The Lambrusco variety has over sixty sub varieties scattered throughout Italy, the most significant being Lambrusco Grasparossa, Lambrusco Maestri, Lambrusco Marani, Lambrusco Montericco, Lambrusco Salamino and Lambrusco di Sorbara.

Many Lambrusco producers will fully ferment the juice and purchase must from a cooperative to restart the fermentation just before bottling. Antonia feels that by purchasing another producer’s must she would lose control of quality and cleanliness. Instead, she uses temperature controlled/pressurized stainless steel tanks to partially ferment the juice and then cools it to 32 degrees. At the time of bottling she warms the juice and a second fermentation begins. The CO2 is trapped in the wine and bottled on the estate directly from the tanks. Bottling occurs fresh only as the demand requires. This is a far more expensive technique but from the different styles I’ve tasted definitely worth it. One of my favorite producers Villa di Corlo uses this method.

Villa di Corlo managed and owned by Antonia Jacobazzi dates back to the end of the 1600’s and is located in Baggiovarra approximately 10KM SW of Modena in Emilia Romagna. Villa Di Corla produces 5 different styles including the Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, DOC and Amabile ( slightly sweet). Amible was the wine we had selected to pair with a  feast we had planned. After chilling slightly we poured this dark frothy wine to sample before our meal. Flavors of blueberry, tart cherry and a full round rich fruits finished with light smooth tannins. I couldn’t wait to try it with the variety of dishes I had cooked up.

Starting with warm crusty bread, goat/ricotta cheese mixed with paprika/olive oil, assorted cured olives and baby zucchini capanota each element went great with this Lambrusco! The second course of salad with pancetta and our main dish of eggplant rollatini stuffed with broccoli rabe, roasted garlic, goat/ricotta cheese in a light plum tomato sauce was an amazing pairing also…

Eggplant Rollatini with Broccoli Rabe and Ricotta/Goat Cheese Filling

1 medium eggplant peeled, thinly sliced lengthwise
                                        12 oz ricotta cheese, 2 oz goat cheese blended
2 eggs beaten with 2 tablespoons milk
1 cup each breadcrumb and flour mixed
                               1 1/2 cup broccoli rabe, chopped fine, blanched and drained
2 cloves roasted garlic
pinch of salt and white pepper
3 cups fresh tomato sauce
canola oil for frying eggplant
Lightly salt eggplant slices and set in colander to drain for 1/2 hour. This makes the eggplant less bitter and takes out some of the moisture. Pat dry and dip each peace in egg mixture then flour mixture coating evenly. Heat 1/2 inch canola oil on medium heat and fry each piece till golden brown on each side. Drain on paper towel and prepare stuffing mixture by mixing blended cheeses, brocolli rabe, garlic and salt/pepper.
Lay out drained pieces length wise and put 1 to 2 tablespoons of cheese mixture on widest end and roll up laying pieces seam side down in long baking dish prepped with 2 cups of tomato sauce. Make sure not to crowd pieces as they will soak up sauce and expand. I make my own sauce but if you like you can sub your homemade version for a store bought version if you are short on time.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. After filling prepped dish with all roll ups top with remaining sauce and bake for 45-50 minutes. Top with additional sauce, a good grated cheese or fresh basil if desired. Enjoy!

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2010/11/02 · 12:36 am

Can you Say Scheurebe? SHOY-RAY-BEH! Deliciously Paired and with Cajun Corn and Lobster Fritters

Lasts weeks tasting led me to try 2 wines made from a grape I sometimes forget about but love! Scheurebe was created by Dr. George Scheu in Rheinhessen, Germany from a cross of Riesling and Sylvaner in 1916. Sylvaner is known as a sexy grape with a rounder structure that adds a bit of richness to the cross playing off of Rieslings heady aromas and rich fruit flavors. This grapes varietal character often has notes of currant and red berries that are unusual and delicious!

Of the 2 selections one stood out as the clear winner of the evening. Kurt Darting Dürkheimer Spielberg Scheurebe Spätlese 2007 from the Platz was a truly exceptional wine! With only about 6% dedicated to the growth of Scheurebe the wines of the Platz are constantly improving due to an influx of educated young maverick wine makers with an interest in lower yields and high quality wines from smaller estates.

Darting’s Scheurebe has a juicy balanced acidity, luscious bright red berry and a lingering finish full of ruby red grapefruit juice and floral notes. Perfect for foods with a bit of spice the sweet, salty, spicy play of flavors would work perfectly for Thai, Indian, Cajun or Chinese dishes.

My suggested pairing is this recipe I love to make as a start to a special evening. You may substitute crab meat for the lobster or omit the seafood for vegetarian preparation.

Cajun Corn and Lobster Fritters

16-18  fritters

Ingredients

3 cups oil for frying
 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
 1/2 teaspoon salt
 1 egg, lightly beaten
1/2 cup milk
1 tablespoon shortening, melted
 1 (12 ounce) can white shoe peg corn drained
1 6oz. Lobster tail chopped into small cubes
1/4 red pepper chopped into fine cubes
1 green onion chopped fine
1 teaspoon old bay seasoning
2 dashes hot sauce

Directions

Heat oil in a heavy pot or deep fryer to 365 degrees F (185 degrees C).

In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, old bay and salt. Beat together egg, milk, and melted shortening; stir into flour mixture. Mix in the corn kernels, lobster, peppers, green onion and hot sauce.

Drop fritter batter in small spoonfuls into the hot oil, and fry until golden. Drain on paper towels.

Serve with a spicy chipolte mayo on the side…………..
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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2010/08/03 · 2:34 pm

An Interesting Blonde paired with Chicken Veronica in a Silky Savory Sauce

One of the most interesting beverages I’ve come across lately is an unfiltered, no sulfur dioxide added treat. A small production of just 300 cases with no commercial yeast strains or barrel treatment this is a bit of a indie wine with a small but dedicated following. It reminds me a bit of a cult film, it’s flukey offbeat style draws me back to check it out again and again like Rocky Horror or a John Waters flick.

” Blonde” a blend of Chardonnay and Viognier from Andrea Calek is a wine I bought a few bottles of after tasting a sample bottle I bought for a tasting of natural wines. I’ve always had a soft spot for anything and anyone a bit undisciplined, non conformist or misbehaved.  This wine produced in the Ardeche region located in the Rhone totally qualifies for every level of funky individuality I’ve ever been attracted to. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle with the natural yeast left in and it’s closure is a simple crown beer cap with a small plastic insert inside. The murky juice is visible in the green glass bottle with a simple label including just the name of the wine and winemaker. The vintner who is rumored to live in a trailer among his vines has included his hot mail address on the back label should you have any questions on just what possessed him to bottle such a strange beverage! 
Having a few friends over I decided to chill a few bottles to get reactions.After a few weeks in my cellar the deposit of grayish brown sludge or dead yeast in the bottle had adhered to the side of the bottle and took a few hours upright to settle to the bottom. The first few glasses carefully poured were quite clear and had aromas of honeysuckle, pear and a rich slightly creamy flavor. As we made our way through the rest of this bottle it became more and more murky and yeasty. The flavor changed from wine to an almost cider type drink. This is not for the faint of heart with bizarre chunks of sediment and an almost muddy appearance. I have to say I really liked it as it was like having a wine, beer and cider rolled into one bottle with the exception of the first glass. Sadly you lose the last glass in the bottle unless you are willing to try what looks like complete swamp water.
I paired it with a cream based chicken dish with mushrooms, grapes and shallots that went with all aspects of this wine from start to finish. The slightly sweet savory sauce complemented the rich fruit as well as the yeasty apple flavors that filled our glasses throughout the evening!
Chicken Veronica
6 pieces sliced chicken breasts( approx 1/4 inch thick), 2 shallots chopped fine, 4 white mushrooms sliced, 1 cup seedless white grapes, 2 cups heavy cream, 6 tablespoons flour, 2 tablespoons butter, 1/4 cup chicken broth, salt and white pepper to taste, 1/4 cup canola oil 
Rinse and pat dry chicken and lightly dredge in 4 tablespoons of flour. Heat oil and saute till browned on each side about 2 min. each side in large fry pan. Remove chicken to rest on platter and drain oil from pan. Add butter on low heat, after butter melts add mushrooms and shallots and saute till shallots are transparent. Stir in remaining flour and continue stirring to well coat shallots/mushrooms. Slowly add cream and broth all the while stirring to incorporate liquids. Add grapes and chicken and simmer for 20 min on low flame occasionally stirring till thickened, add salt and pepper to taste. Remove chicken to platter, stir sauce to blend and pour over chicken.
Blonde can be found online at http://www.astorwines.com/

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2009/06/29 · 10:15 pm

Sensational Summer Pairings with Goat Cheese


One of my favorite summer wine pairings is fresh goat cheese with a light crisp white wine. Many summer days while traveling in France I would just buy a fresh baguette, goat cheese and a lovely Sancerre. The flavors complement each other so well! Recently I’ve been experimenting with a few variations and have come up with some stellar flavor combinations to share with you.

My 2 favorites include infusing fruits into the recipes to cut the sometimes pungent flavors. The goat cheese truffle with fresh grapes, sauterne and roasted pistachio was the hit of a recent tasting paired with a crisp white Entre Deux Mers from Chateaux Bonnet in Bordeaux. The second big hit is a strawberry, basil, reduced balsamic vinegar creation on a toasted crustini with a hint of cracked pepper on top. The strawberry and crisp bright flavors of a Seyval Blanc or Sancerre make a perfect marriage with the fresh creamy cheese.

If your a NY locavore I suggest Hudson Chatham Wineries Seyval Blanc and Nettle Meadows Farm fresh goat cheese for these pairings. Both are products of Ghent, NY which is an up and comer for all things foodie in NY. Nettle Meadows also produces infused goat cheese with lavender/honey, herbs, cracked pepper and an addictive aged goat cheese that will nock your socks off.

Goat Cheese Truffle w/ roasted pistachios

1 cup fresh goat cheese
1/2 cup cream cheese or quark
2 tablespoons Sauterne
1 sm. bunch white grapes
2 cups toasted pistachios chopped fine

Blend both cheeses together with Sauterne till smooth. Roll cheese mixture around individual grapes to form small round balls. Refrigerate for 20 min till firm and roll balls in chopped nut mixture to coat well. Arrange on a platter with baby arugula and melon as accompaniments. This can be prepared up to 2 days ahead tightly covered with plastic wrap. Let warm slightly at room temp before serving.

Strawberry Goat Cheese Crustini

2 goat cheese logs
1 Quart Strawberries, hulled, sliced and quartered
1/2 cup Basil cut into ribbons
2 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons cracked black pepper
25 crustini

Toss strawberries, honey, basil and balsamic vinegar together and let sit for 15 min. Slice cheese into rounds and arrange on top of crustini. Top each crustini with strawberry mixture and sprinkle lightly with pepper. This mixture is also fabulous on top of a salad of baby greens.

Whether you choose to try this with NY or French wines/cheese it is a great pairing for those hot summer nights when lighter fare is needed. I know all I need is wine and cheese for the perfect meal anytime!

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2009/05/08 · 6:17 pm

Sparkling Wine Brunch for Mother’s Day

Brunch has always been one of my favorite meals! You can be very creative incorporating dishes and flavors from every corner of the world. Also you can pair these foods with a number of sparkling wines that usually aren’t an acceptable part of the average breakfast. Personally I think it should be OK to drink sparkling wine anytime!
Growing up it was always the meal that all of the family helped with, each of us having a favorite dish. My Mom always made a special pancake souffle dish for holiday brunches that is my go to when I want to impress Brunch guests! This dish would come out of the oven straight to the table pipping hot and extremely pouffe ready to be devoured. The recipe can be altered to incorporate savory items or topped with baked apples, lemon curd and a number of other fruits. I like to add fresh chopped herbs and aged cheddar to the batter but you can experiment with many different things depending on your mood.
Oven Baked Newfoundland Pancake
Ingredients
5 Eggs, beaten
1 1/4 cup Milk
1 1/4 cup All-purpose flour
1/2 stick Butter, melted
Lemon Juice to taste
Powdered Sugar to taste
Preparation
Mix together the eggs, milk and flour and set aside. Heat large skillet in 350 degree F oven, and when oven is preheated, add 1/2 stick of butter to skillet to melt. When butter is melted, pour in egg mixture. Bake for 30 minutes. Let cool 1-2 minutes (pancake will deflate slightly as it cools) and slice to serve. Add powdered sugar and lemon juice to top of pancake to taste.
I suggest a variety of sausage like chicken/apple, spicy sage and baked ham as side dishes. A decorative platter of exotic fruits and baby greens tossed with goat cheese/walnuts would also round out the entire menu.
My two favorite sparklers of the moment are an incredible pairing for this menu!

Bruder Dr. Becker Sekt 2005, 100 % Scheurebe, Germany- Fruity, dry and crisp with a bit of peach, grapefruit and a medium acidity. Hints of minerality on the finish round out this wine made from a grape not often seen in the world of sparking wines!

Cremant de Bourgogne Rose, Perle d’Aurore Louis Boullot, 65% Chardonnay 35 % Pinot Noir, France- Lush, rich, fruity and just slightly off dry. A fabulous addition to any meal from brunch to dessert!
You could also serve a Spanish Cava, Italian Prosecco or the New Mexican Sparkler Gruet as a welcome addition to this menu.

For dessert try a variety of chocolate pastries, cookies and chocolate dipped strawberries with a decadent dessert wine! I like Rosa Regale Brachetto D’Aqui, Banfi, Italy, a sweet sparkling with bright berry flavors.

Here’s wishing everyone a Happy Mother’s Day!

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